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--> </style> <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple style='tab-interval:.5in'> <div class=WordSection1> <p align=right style='text-align:right'><span style='font-size:18.0pt'><a href="#all">See all the pictures</a></span><o:p></o:p></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>The Hats of Borough Park</span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>Some months ago I became interested in the hats worn by the (male) Hasidim of Brooklyn. I had heard it said that each of the Hasidic &quot;courts&quot; -- <span class=SpellE>Lubavitch</span>, <span class=SpellE>Satmar</span>, <span class=SpellE>Ger</span>, <span class=SpellE>Bobov</span>, <span class=SpellE>Belz</span>, and many others -- wear distinctive hats and that, therefore, it is possible to tell to which court an individual adheres by the style of hat he wears. Since such identification may be of interest to non-Hasidic Jews, and others, I thought that I would put together a photographic documentation of Hasidic hat styles, ordered by court group.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>Talking to some Hasidim in Brooklyn, it quickly became clear that the question of Hasidic hats was more complex than I had anticipated:</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>1) Not everybody who wears Hasidic garb and a Hasidic hat is closely or exclusively affiliated with one of the courts. It emerged from more than one of my conversations that there are various nuances in the degree to which a person may feel himself associated with one or more of the courts. As a result, the boundaries of hat styles, no more than allegiance to the various courts, don't necessarily exhibit clear-cut boundaries.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>2) Weekday hat styles differ from those worn on <span class=SpellE>shabbes</span>, other holidays, and special <span class=SpellE>simchas</span> (celebrations) such as weddings. Most of the Hasidic groups favor the <a href="#shtreimel"><span class=SpellE>shtreimel</span></a>(a wide fur hat) for the latter occasions. The <span class=SpellE>Gerer</span> Hasidim wear the <span class=SpellE>spodek</span> (a higher fur hat) instead. The <span class=SpellE>Lubavitch</span> Hasidim wear neither (see below).</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>3) Men associated with the <span class=SpellE>Lubavitch</span> movement do not wear any of the specifically Hasidic hats. Instead they wear black hats like those worn by non-Hasidic Orthodox Jews, a style sometimes termed &quot;<span class=SpellE>Yeshivish</span>.&quot; The hat in Picture <a href="#Mem"><span class=SpellE>Mem</span></a> appears to be this kind. I have been told that it was the last of the <span class=SpellE>Lubavitcher</span> <span class=SpellE>Rebbes</span>, Rabbi <span class=SpellE>Menachem</span> M. <span class=SpellE>Schneerson</span>, who abolished the wearing of the Hasidic hat among his followers. The <span class=SpellE>Lubavitch</span> Hasidim will turn down the rim in the front of their hats; it is said that the <span class=SpellE>Rebbe</span> wore his with a particularly noticeable downturn. Here is the story that I heard: when asked why he had abandoned the Hasidic hat, the <span class=SpellE>Rebbe</span> said that wearing Hasidic hats would impress many people in Mea <span class=SpellE>Shearim</span> (the Orthodox neighborhood of Jerusalem) and Borough Park, but these good people are already pious Jews. What needs to be done, the <span class=SpellE>Rebbe</span> is reported to have said, is to reach a Jew like the <span class=SpellE>kibbutznik</span>, someone whose piety may leave a little something to be desired. Wear the hat of the world, he continued, eliminate the barriers between you and the secular masses, and you will bring back the wayward Jew to the fold of the <span class=SpellE>Toire</span> (Torah).</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>With these limitations in mind, it emerged that Hasidic (weekday) hats can be classified by two <span class=GramE>cross-cutting</span> criteria: a) &quot;smooth&quot; vs. &quot;beaver,&quot; and b) &quot;high&quot; vs. &quot;flat&quot;.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>The &quot;smooth&quot; hat has a finish that is similar to the smooth finish of secular felt hats. (The <span class=SpellE>Yeshivish</span> hats of the <span class=SpellE>Lubavitch</span> are also smooth). Picture <a href="#Beyz"><span class=SpellE>Beys</span></a> shows this finish. The &quot;beaver&quot; finish is furry and, I understand, comes from rabbit fur. Pictures <a href="#Pey"><span class=SpellE>Pey</span></a> and <a href="#Yud"><span class=SpellE>Yud</span></a> show this finish.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>The &quot;flat&quot; hats are shorter than the &quot;high&quot; hats. Both <span class=SpellE>Pey</span> and <span class=SpellE>Yud</span> (see above) are flat.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>As I understand the story of who wears which style, it goes essentially as follows. Hasidim who trace their origins to Hungary, mostly the <span class=SpellE>Satmar</span>, are more-or-less the only ones who wear flat hats. All the rest, it would seem, wear the higher style. From the point of view of finish, almost all the Hasidim wear the beaver finish. Aside from the <span class=SpellE>Lubavitch</span>, the major exception is the <span class=SpellE>Gerer</span> group, who <span class=GramE>wear</span> only smooth. The <span class=SpellE>Satmar</span> can wear a smooth hat on weekdays and a beaver hat, or the <span class=SpellE>shtreimel</span>, on <span class=SpellE>shabbes</span>.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>The story I have heard about the smooth hats of the <span class=SpellE>Gerer</span> Hasidim is that about 150 years ago a ruler of Poland forbade Hasidim to wear special clothes. Whereupon the <span class=SpellE>Gerer</span> <span class=SpellE>rebbe</span> said that the only thing special about Hasidic clothing is the &quot;beaver&quot; hat so he told his Hasidim to wear only smooth ever after. And perhaps the <span class=SpellE>Gerer</span> peculiarity of wearing <span class=SpellE>spodeks</span> instead of <span class=SpellE>streimels</span> on <span class=SpellE>shabbes</span> has a similar origin.</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>While taking the pictures that follow a number of Hasidim objected to having their faces appear in them. I made the promise to have no face appear, and this is the reason that the hats appear without faces.</span></p> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <p><i><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>There is a certain mystery around the trade in Hasidic hats.<br> Traditionally, it seems that many if not most Hasidim on both sides of the Atlantic depended on the Bohemian firm of <span class=SpellE>Hückel</span> in the old Austro-Hungarian <span class=GramE>empire</span> to supply their hats. When that empire expired at the end of World War II, two successor firms, one in Poland and the other in Czechoslovakia, produced hats for Hasidim.<br> The Polish firm is called <a href="http://www.polkap.pl/index-a.htm"><span class=SpellE>Polkap</span></a>. In a recent message to me, it insisted that it produces Hasidic hats, but would not go into details how it exports them, if at all, to America.<br> The Czech firm is now called <a href="http://www.tonak.com/ang/tonak.html"><span class=SpellE>Tonak</span>.</a> It appears to use the <span class=SpellE>Hückel</span> trade name to this day.<br> Whether and how these European hats are imported to the Hasidic community in America is a <span class=GramE>closely-held</span> secret. One merchant would only tell me that he obtains his wares &quot;indirectly&quot; from Czechoslovakia. <br> Some years ago a well-known New York Hasidic hat merchant died on a business trip in Czechoslovakia. This event seems to have deepened the mystery of the Hasidic hat trade.</span></i></p> </blockquote> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>I cannot with any certainty say that any of these pictures are associated with a given court. If any of my readers feel that one or more of these pictures give enough clues to make such association, I would very much like to hear from them. Please contact me by clicking here:</span></p> <p><a href="mailto:wernerco@interchange.ubc.ca"><b><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>Send <span class=GramE>an e</span>-mail to Werner Cohn</span></b></a></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>For the ethnographic background, I have consulted, among others, the excellent books by <span class=SpellE>Mintz</span> and <span class=SpellE>Gutwirth</span>:</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>Jerome R. <span class=SpellE>Mintz</span>, <u>Hasidic People</u>, Harvard U. Press, 1992</span></p> <p><span style='font-size:18.0pt'>Jacques <span class=SpellE>Gutwirth</span>, <u>Vie <span class=SpellE>Juive</span> <span class=SpellE>Traditionnelle</span></u>, Minuit, 1970 (an ethnography of the <span class=SpellE>Belz</span> Hasidim of Antwerp)</span></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p><b><span style='font-size:24.0pt;font-family:"Apple Chancery"'>Be sure to also visit my blog <a href="http://www.fringegroups.com/">fringegroups.com</a></span></b></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><a name=all></a><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=235 id="_x0000_i1025" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/alef%20beyz.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=405 id="_x0000_i1026" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/alef.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=443 id="_x0000_i1027" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/ayen.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=276 id="_x0000_i1028" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/beyz%20beyz.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<a name=Beyz></a><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=397 id="_x0000_i1029" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/beyz.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=235 id="_x0000_i1030" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/daled.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=400 id="_x0000_i1031" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/fey.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=528 id="_x0000_i1032" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/giml.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=307 id="_x0000_i1033" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/hey.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=528 id="_x0000_i1034" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/khes.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=580 id="_x0000_i1035" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/khof.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=235 id="_x0000_i1036" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/kof.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=311 id="_x0000_i1037" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/kuf.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=470 id="_x0000_i1038" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/lamed.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><a name=Mem></a><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=485 id="_x0000_i1039" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/mem.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=235 id="_x0000_i1040" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/nun.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><a name=Pey></a><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><img border=0 width=352 height=235 id="_x0000_i1041" src="wernercohn.com/Macintosh%20HD:Users:wernercohn:Sites:wernercohn.com:Resources/hasidim-output/pey.jpg" align=BOTTOM NATURALSIZEFLAG=3></span><span style='mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span style='font-size:36.0pt;font-family:Textile;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; 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